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Cockatiels |
Health Programme |
Excessive Egg Laying |
Vomiting Sneezing | Itching | Feather Plucking | Excessive Screeching |
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Cockatiels are an excellent choice as a pet or an aviary bird. As a pet, they are good talkers and they breed readily in the aviary. The wild cockatiel is a grey colour and the sexes are distinguished by the cheek and face colour. The presence of bars under the tail indicates a female in varieties with dark tails. The first colour mutations appeared in the 1940's and since then, many colours have evolved. The white-colour mutations are usually more difficult to sex. Surgical sexing or DNA testing can be used to determine the sex of your birds. The average life span of a cockatiel is 15 years. They are desert-evolved birds and follow exactly the same health programmes as Budgerigars. However, Cockatiels have different problems than the Budgerigar in captivity. This page will explain the most common problems experienced in the captive-bred Cockatiel.
Ongoing Health Programme for Cockatiels
1 Water Cleanser is prepared by adding 1gm (level white spoon) into a litre of water. The drinking vessel is filled from this litre and the rest is used to clean the cage and utensils. Water Cleanser cleanses the bowel of harmful food and water related germs, promoting a stronger natural health.
2 Dufoplus (5 drops) and Ioford (10 drops) are mixed together into 100mls of drinking water and safely left for two days, as they are sugar free. They provide the vitamins and trace elements necessary for good health. The signs of improved health are visible by the more intense green, blue and yellow color of the plumage, beak and feet, together with whiter whites in the feathers and an increased activity and talking ability. Note: For aviary birds, Dufoplus/Ioford and Turbobooster may be added to fruit or soft food mix. 5 drops of Dufoplus, 10 drops of Ioford and 6 drops of Turbobooster are added to 200 grams of fruit or food. NV Powder is a sugar-based vitamin alternative to Dufoplus and Ioford.
3 6 drops of Turbobooster is mixed thoroughly into 100gm of seed, then a level white 1gm spoon of E-pwder and F-Vite is mixed into it. The F-Vite powder sticks to the Turbobooster oil-impregnated seed, providing your bird with the fatty acids, protein and minerals necessary for good health. Glossy strong feathers and increased vitality are the health changes you will notice within three weeks of using these products. In hot weather, when temperatures are above 25 degrees Celcius, it is necessary to prepare these fresh daily; otherwise, in winter, the seed can be left unchanged for the full three days. Note: For aviary birds, Turbobooster may be added to fruit or soft food mix. 1 white teaspoon (¼ teaspoon measure) of F-Vite and Energy supplement are added to 100 grams of food.
Excessive Egg Laying in Pet Cockatiels Pet cockatiels will only lay eggs if they are "in love" with their owners. This display of affection reflects a very content pet bird. There are a few things you should do when your pet Cockatiel continues to lay eggs. You will need to provide a nest, such as a small towel, etc., because your Cockatiel will not release her own droppings so as to keep her nest clean. She should be taken out of her cage twice daily so she can release her droppings. This also stimulates fitness and stomach-muscle tone. After laying her first egg, your Cockatiel must receive supplementary nutrition, in the form of extra minerals, protein, vitamins and energy. Daily Turbobooster, Energy supplement and Fvite is recommended. Please see chart below. Your Cockatiel should lay an egg each second day - if the interval is longer, she may experience uterus problems. If this happens, it is an indication of a nutritional imbalance. Allow your Cockatiel to incubate (sit on) her eggs for ten days after she has laid the final egg of the clutch (4-6 eggs). This allows her hormone system to complete its cycle and for her body to replenish its energy, mineral and protein levels after the physical burden of producing and laying eggs. After the ten days are up, remove the eggs from the cage and allow her plenty of free exercise to fully regain her fitness levels. This will also take her mind off the emotional traumas of losing her eggs. Your Cockatiel may continue to lay eggs at regular intervals after this time, but she must be provided with an ongoing programme and remain very fit; she must receive daily exercise. During the cold of winter and the heat of summer, your Cockatiel must not lay eggs. To avoid her laying eggs, the cage and your Cockatiel must be moved from her normal room. The moving of the cage into a different and new environment temporarily takes her out of "breeding condition" and stops her from laying eggs. She may require hormonal therapy if she continues to lay eggs during this time. At the first sign of impending egg-laying (dropped tail, enlarged rump, behavioural changes associated with nest making activity), start the following programme and continue for three weeks after your Cockatiel has incubated her eggs for ten days and the eggs have been removed. After this time, follow the Ongoing Health Programme for cockatiels. Vomiting Sneezing Itching Feather Picking Excessive Screeching & Behavioural Problems Copyright © 2004 Rob Marshall, All Rights Reserved. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||